Last time I started to build the undercarriage of my BRDM-2 and it went pretty quickly. Now I need to take a break from the construction to paint the interior. Usually I try to build the whole model before I even touch any paint, but here it wasn’t an option. So I just need to be very careful not to ruin the painted interior in later works. If you’re new to this story, check out the previous parts below.
THE INTERIOR
I decided to paint the interior as quickly as possible. I’m just tired of wasting time on things that will end up completely covered.
I started the painting as usual with a clean coat of primer. As you can see I covered the edges of the main hull with Tamiya masking tape. I don’t want any paint on surfaces that will be glued later.
Then I painted the base coats: dark grey for the floor and polished aluminium for the radio equipment.
After applying a layer of chipping fluid I painted the radio grey and I started scratching.
The black goo you can see on the vehicle’s floor is Panzer Putty that I occasionally use for masking.
The basic green colour I composed of Ammo’s Zashchitniy Zeleno and Light Green for highlight. Then the chipping begins for the second time.
As I’ve mentioned before, the amount of radio equipment in this kit is puzzling. But on the other hand, there’s plenty of interesting details to work with.
Here’s a quick way to weather aluminium: all you have to do is drybrush it with light grey. Focus on the flat surfaces around the knobs. The paint must be matt to create the contrast with the base aluminium shine.
I painted the knobs with a brush.
Judging by the photos, my BRDM-2 is not exactly in mint condition. So I went to town with the weathering of the radios. I used van Gogh oil paints: mostly burned umber and black. The paint is gently blended with white spirit. Notice that I focused on the lower parts of each box to create a pattern.
I only find one reference photo for the radio on the far left. With the rest I had to use my imagination.
It’s a good time to paint the gas tank. I start with Humbrol’s aluminium again.
After a layer of chipping fluid I sprayed a mixture of white, cremeweiss and khaki.
Then I moisten the surface with water and I remove most of the paint with a trimmed brush.
THE CONSTRUCTION CONTINUES
It’s time to seal the main hull and carry on with the construction. I started with the main gun which is surprisingly complicated build by itself. The set gives you the opportunity to add a nice resin handle but I don’t need it for my project.
Here’s the gun assembled. It looks fantastic!
And here’s the comparison of two options. As you can see the PE gun base is much longer than the original part. I’m not sure which of these is closer to reality. It’s hard to say even comparing them with reference photos.
It’s time to go back to the main hull. I started with the details. Here’s the headlight cover. If you doubt the photo-etched parts are any useful, this photo will surely convince you… 🙂
Here’s another example. Headlight details were a nightmare to attach, but they look great!
I closed the main hull. The top part fits really well which was a huge relief as I didn’t feel like sanding at that point. Then I started to attach the details. Here are the headlights with wires.
The shovel and some details on the side.
I improved the turret periscope adding a pane from clear styrene. There’s also a mirror there, sadly almost invisible.
I really like how the turret looks after the extra work. It will be one of the key points of the model.
I decided to paint and mask the headlights before I wrap up the construction. I used the old Humbrol again.
The kit’s lenses didn’t fit my project so I decided to make my own blackout lights. I cut the approximate shape out of an ordinary blister package.
Then goes the tedious work of sanding it down to a perfect circle. You may need a rage control therapy after this stage.
I paint the lens with a mix of Ammo Black, Glossy Varnish and Transparator to achieve a semi transparent effect. You can scrape some of the paint afterwards for some next-level effect. I install the lenses with just a little bit of glossy varnish.
Trumpeter was very clever in designing the spotlight. The lightbulb you see inside is actually just a hole. It’s the lens that makes it look like a convex structure. So you don’t need to build anything inside, just paint it and you’re all set. Splendid job Trumpeter!
I added some details to the spotlight. The electrical cord was made by winding a thin wire over another, thicker wire.
For the wire drum I used the Eureka XXL thin towing cable. Trumpeter provides a piece of string for that and I couldn’t just live with it.
Quick tip
Dedicate some time to plan your build, especially if it requires additional stages like PE, resin or painting interior. A good plan will spare you a lot of trouble later.
So here it is: my BRDM-2 all put together. I obviously didn’t glue the wheels just yet. I also left the pike pole detached because I want to work on it separately.
